A long-ish lunch before a 30th anniversary trip, VGR at MGKC was a very civilised way to kick off the trip.

They’ve made minimal changes to the room since the reboot but everything else has been transformed for the better.

A busy day of other stuff on London meant we had the place to ourselves for the majority of our visit. This could have been unnerving on the service side but wasn’t thanks to an excellent team. The sommelier in particular was a charmer, with good recommendations for face stuffing in Istanbul (though I must admit that stuffed muscles quayside wasn’t appealing). He lined us up a couple of fizzes and we perused the menu.

Which is brief. I don’t mind that. We both had a crab starter and I opted for the quail for main. Did we get bread, I asked with a slight anxiety, there appeared No Stodge on the list and sides are absent. Yes, we were assured.

The crab was sensational – plenty of the brown and white stuff, pea sorbet, flaars all over and whopping lump of high quality bread to share in the middle of the table. But not before we’d had a couple of canapés of tomato’s and olives, yum yum.

Quail was lollipopped, hockey pucked (at least that’s what it didn’t say on the menu) and crisped. Yum, yum, and yum. Juice, treble yum and extra yum for the morels. A glass of Denizli red with that just perfect.

Dessert? YES! Grapefruit all kinds of way but mostly I want to eat that again. And then little petit fours. Have I ever been more content before getting on a train? No.

My new favourite place in London.

9/10

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London Paris French Restaurant st pancras