Tramp took an age to arrive on Green Lanes, construction and fitting out seeming to operate on a geological timescale over the past year or so. Located opposite the heroically shambolic Beaconsfield pub (and at the end of my street) it’s a bold entry into the Harringay dining scene, attempting to bring a touch of upscale bistro-style dining to the Kebabisch Karnival that is Green Lanes.
Such an unorthodox proposition in this part of London had deterred me from visiting previously but a happy confluence of an empty nest and the chance to catch up with old friends tempted us into a Friday night feast. On the whole Tramp exceeded expectations. The room, Tardis-like, is bigger on the inside than it appears – long and thin with a mezzanine cunningly slotted in near the front window. It wasn’t too busy on a Friday night (I guess people were saving themselves for Valentine’s) but the busily eclectic décor worked well to make the restaurant feel homely even with only a smattering of customers.
To the food. Standard bistro fare of soups, seafood, steaks and fish. I feared carrot and coconut soup might be a bit on the sweet side but it was actually delicious, as was the rib eye steak which came with a generous portion of chunky chips which I was able to share with the rest of the table (who’d forgotten to order stodge as it’s extra). For once I went for a dessert too and tried out a crème brulée, always a good test. I despatched it in about twenty seconds with a Calvados on the side.
Wines are of good quality but those on a budget won’t find much change from twenty quid if going for the cheapest option, which seems a mis-step. While Harringay is gentrifying (slowly at the Sainsbury’s end of the ladder) I don’t think its diners would automatically pay £20 plus for a house white. This meant that the bill was slightly north of what I would have expected, pushing Tramp into a mid to upmarket West End price bracket.
And now I feel a bit of a churl because it was a really good meal, helped by the staff being very friendly and obviously aware of the need to generate some repeat custom. I’d recommend Tramp for locals who are looking for something different to the usual; whether you’d travel to visit is another question.
To see which other restaurants I’ve visited in 2016 check out my GoogleMap
Blue Badge guide to London and academic specialising in early twentieth century history. Blogging on history, academia, and food and culture in the capital (and occasionally elsewhere).