I can’t believe it’s taken me this Longo to review the first new restaurant of 2026 but I guess there was a bit of a post-Christmas slump and our day trip to Paris only involved the ever-excellent Fumoir on the dining front.*

We were in Pimlico for the Turner/Constable show at Tate Britain. You’d think there couldn’t be much left unsaid about these two and you’d be pretty much right. But there are a few lollipops to tempt the jaded gallery goer, including a couple of six footers visiting from the States. But if I hadn’t had a member’s ticket I don’t think I would have been happy at paying for it when a goodly amount of the stuff on display came from Tate or the V&A.

Anyway, after that it was a debrief in the Morpeth to decide on a resto. Being with the old boy meant curry was on the agenda. Millbank Spice hadn’t been quite good enough to tempt us back so we went to the next nearest at the Pimlico Tandoori.

Ah, what a room already, reminiscent of the glory days of Motijheel (now a bao place – this is how London has changed in the last ten years) in its unreconstructed décor and troupe of multi-generational waiters vigorously wiping plates. We were lucky to get a table as ten minutes after arrival the room was full with locals and a smattering of sophisticated visitors.

We stuck into the Cobra and perused. Yes, all the classics are there plus a few chef’s specials. Up front the veg samosas were superior specimens, crispy on the outside, identifiable vegetables within. Onion bhajis were onionycrispy hand grenades ripe for dipping into the raita. Poppadums came with four chutneys, and yes, thank the Lord, one of them was a hot’n’sour lime number. Excellent.

Main of jalfrezi was not quite at Akbar’s level of devastation but appealingly close to it. Across the way a mysterious green sauced thing tasted better than it looked.

We now have an excellent PT to complement the FP PT as after the jalfrezi I was definitely in need of a cold Stella. No need to search further for Indian in Pimlico now, we have found the solution.

8/10

* This was a trip to see the excellent Pekka Halonen exhibition at the Petit Palais. It was more than a Halonen show with canvases from the circle of artists based around Helsinki and Lake Tuusula at the turn of the twentieth century, including a stinking portrait of Sibelius by Eero Jäärnefelt from a private collection. Highly recommended and not too busy.

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