Review #24 Hawksmoor, Air Street

A family get together so we decided to treat ourselves to Hawksmoor. Previously I’d been here for a quick-ish, quiet-ish lunch but this was a Saturday evening and it was heaving. Despite this the front of house from coat check to sommelier was Rolls Royce smooth.

The photo, I should emphasise, is not of the restaurant! It is of Nicholas Hawksmoor’s wonderful St. Mary Woolnoth by Bank tube. At a junction which contains some of the most significant buildings and monuments to be found in the City it nevertheless stands out as a bold, eye-catching work of genius. Hawksmoor Air Street on the other hand has a discreet door off Piccadilly Circus and lays opulently on top of a slather of Regent Street shops like a gastronomic Jabba the Hutt on his dais.

On the food front everything was cooked to perfection – delicious steak and each of the sides utterly yum. But beware, those treats come at a cost! Everything is itemised to the gram. And maybe I wasn’t in a Saturday night mood but the noise of the big, open room was fearsomely prejudicial to civilised conversation. Should we have chosen to have indulged in it that is.


To see which other restaurants I’ve visited in 2016 check out my GoogleMap

London Restaurants

f1insburyparker View All →

Blue Badge guide to London and academic specialising in early twentieth century history. Blogging on history, academia, and food and culture in the capital (and occasionally elsewhere).

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