To HIX  Mayfair on Albemarle Street with a friend who was looking for a suitable venue for a major birthday party. We’d been lured by the improbably cheap set lunch menu of 32 nicker for three courses and an introductory cocktail.

HIX Mayfair is less flamboyant than the other branches I’ve visited in Shoreditch and Soho, being located behind the discreet façade of Brown’s Hotel whose history I once knew but to my shame have now forgotten. The room is wood-pannelled and spacious with a smattering of contemporary art round about the walls (one of Emin’s neon banalities being the most apparent) and exudes the kind of calm opulence that is characteristic of the area. You have a choice of four cocktails – my Britz was prosecco with elderflower and stuff and very refreshing on a warm pre-Brexit day.

A limited choice of dishes as part of the set menu wasn’t a problem as they all looked delicious. A cold asparagus soup was a perfect summer dish and then hake with a herb crust and sorrel for main was cooked to perfection. Good bread on the side and a bottle of Portuguese white lasted through to a blue cheese dessert. The wine sent the bill slightly north but who could quibble with 45 quid or so a head for such outstanding food, ambience and service.

8/10

London Restaurants HIX London Mayfair Restaurant Review