Review #39 Vagenende, Paris

In Paris for a Delacroix day we were looking for somewhere to eat in the vicinity of his former gaff in Saint Germain before strolling across the river to look at the big stuff in the Louvre. I had happened upon Ian Nairn’s guide to Paris in the library the day before and brought it along for the ride. Nairn (in 1968) recommends Vagenende as epitomising the difference between artistic and arty and having shrunk from the tourist traps of Flore and Les DM we were happy to follow his advice and call in for lunch.


Nairn’s review from 1968

The plain exterior gives no hint of the wonders within. A beautifully preserved Belle Epoque room with original art on the walls, golden hued mirrors and the same gramophone player described by Nairn  behind the counter. The room has the same formal yet lived-in feel of Rowley’s in Jermyn Street but is less masculine and has more room. We got a table for two that would have four squeezed onto it in central London.

Service is classic French – formal and attentive, just the way I like it. Bread and water arrived while we were perusing the menu. Fish features big at the V so after a warm up of endive salad and pâté de campagne we went for mains of cod pie and pike. I was expecting standard brasserie food but this was at another level. The cod pie was in fact a beautifully crustless fishy soufflé-ish mixture in a garlicky broth. The pike on the other hand (which I feared would be a bony beast) turned out to be two quenelles of eggy baked yum in a thick sauce that was served at the table from a saucepan that looked straight out of a Chardin still life.

Conversation was aided by a very reasonably priced bottle of red (just over €20) and as lunch developed the large room began to reverberate to the hum of happy eaters. The clientèle seemed a mix of well-heeled locals and a smattering of fellow visitors. After a couple of good coffees we stumbled back onto the streets of Paris a hundred euros down but very, very happy fellers.


To see which other restaurants I’ve visited in 2016 check out my GoogleMap

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7 Responses to “Review #39 Vagenende, Paris”

  1. jordyrachel Says:

    Yes! Love this place. Great article!

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Mchan Says:

    oh yes I take all my Japanese friends to Vagenende, it’s so beautiful and the food is great ^^ and their desserts (miam)


  3. f1insburyparker Says:

    Im glad fellow diners love this place, it was a real treat to eat there. Wish I’d had dessert now!


  4. toeic paris Says:

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    Liked by 1 person

  5. Restaurants of 2016 – the round up | A London Journal Says:

    […] 7. Vagenende […]


  6. Resto 62 La Terrasse des Archives, Paris | A London Journal Says:

    […] the train. This wasn’t exactly what we got in La Terrasse des Archives. It sits beside a Nairn noticed fountain in a prime location in the Marais and so looked exactly what we were looking for. […]


  7. Resto 69 Le Moissonnier, Köln | A London Journal Says:

    […] The foodie highlight of the week, and one that we’d already booked in advance as a treat, was Le Moissonnier. It was a good job that we booked as the restaurant was completely full soon after we arrived at half twelve. The room, however, is peaceful with solid local business types as fellow diners and thus a discreet distance between tables to avoid anyone overhearing gossip of deals and trade secrets. Dotted around the walls are old French posters and ads and the whole place has the feel of a classic French bistrot à la Vagenende. […]


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